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Sao Luis to Santarem... boats, drums, dance, 10,000 views of an Instagram reel, indigenous benches, language, and not getting locked in a toilet!

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  I AM IN AMAZONIA!!!!  Today it’s 12 th May – Mother’s Day... I’m on a fast boat (ie 2 days not 6 days) from Manaus to Tabatinga, and have just been given a sweet little ‘mother’s day’ presentation pack by the staff. And although I’m publishing this blog mid May, I think I’m going to do two or three entries covering the   month since my last entry   because there’s been a lot going on.   This one will take us up to arriving in Santarem... then there’ll be one covering three days in Altamira... and another about Santarem. Alter da Chao and Manaus. And hopefully I’ll manage to get them all done soon.     Long boat journeys are great places to get blogs done.   My problem as I’ve written before is that I’d far rather be doing something active – visiting another exhibition, meeting another person, chatting to new strangers – than sitting still writing.   But here is a perfect situation – speeding down the Solimoes river to Tabatinga with nothing else I can possibly do except drink th

A MONTH LATER, STILL IN SAO LUIS

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Well, it's April 6yth, nearly a month since my last entry.    The last bit of my last entry read....  "Next leg, a 14 hour bus trip to Fortaleza  .... A 20 hour bus trip to  São  Luis ...  And then down to Brazilian Amazonia (buses to Altamira and Santar é m, and a 3 or 4 day boat to Manaus).  Amazonia starts with the city of Bel é m, which is to be the host of COP30 next year.  I’m very interested to see what that place feels like, having spent quite a bit of time at  COP26 in Glasgow" but I'm still in  São  Luis, I've been here three weeks already, and I'm going to be here for ANOTHER week, I haven't got anywhere near Amazonia yet.... .  Why? Well, read on! Fortaleza was great... just a day and a half, staying with  a lovely SERVAS host and also meeting a friend of a friend, whose husband makes really interesting metal sculptures...  (to order and see more , see his instagram here .  We went to the beach in the daytime - the very same beach that my P